Wildfoods Hokitika Part 4

My next adventure  had been planned as I headed back to Nelson on the bikes and so I had a prearranged Pelorus Mail Boat ride to embark on, out of Havelock at 10:00 am next morning! The skipper was to collect me from the Havelock airstrip that I had arranged to land on nearby. Timing was critical to getting aboard this vessel as planned. It all began with my early morning walk through a very quiet Nelson township from the Inn to the far end of town to the bus stop.

It's always interesting and exciting, as an avid traveller, to do all this exciting stuff the way I do it. Having spent years on overnights throughout my working career I have these adventures very well programmed in my mind and always look forward to the next exciting step of the journey. These are always done in conjunction with the prevailing weather conditions so plans are never too firmly laid but this early morning walk had me at the bus station stop via the 24/7 shop nearby to collect a few tasty morsels that may be required along the way as I really had no idea where I would next get food.

Arriving at the stop just as the sun was beginning to show the first glow of a new day in the early morning mist, to the east of the bus stop , was a memorable experience, as I observed the tourist town coming alive and passengers arriving and departing on buses to all sorts of adventures other than mine. My bus duly arrived and so my journey began at 7:30 am on the Greymouth Intercity coach service out of Nelson!

A little further along the coastal highway out of Nelson the coach drew to a halt in a traffic jam! 'What's this at this time of the morning in Nelson?' are my thoughts as I checked my watch and mentally calculated my timings again for my next mission to be a success story. Can't change things but I might have to walk run when I get off the coach in Hope to keep my schedule. The delay was due to repair work on the coastal highway which had taken a beating from the same cyclone that had washed the Takaka Hill road away and caused all the debris to flood the farmlands behind Motueka.

A 10-15 minute delay was not what I had planned on so I was the first and only passenger off the coach here in Hope this day. A quick check of my GPS map directed me to a road directly opposite where I had left the coach so looking right and left and settling my gear on front and back, I clutched my belongings and set off on the 2.4km return to Wagner Strip to collect the Pelican to take me onwards to Havelock. Usually I manage to hitch a ride in these circumstances but that was not the case this morning as all the infrequent traffic was going in the opposite direction to my needs so I had to foot it all the way to Bob's place, finishing with a 1 km walk along the cycle trail that I had picked up outside his place five days before!

Not too flustered though as I made good time back to Wagner Strip from the coach stop so was feeling comfortable about timings to Havelock. I placed my gear beside the Pelican and commenced removing the tiedowns and it wasn't too long before Bob had spied my arrival so wandered over for a chat and also to show me the video that had been taken at Awaroa recently on one of the Motueka teams visits up there.

All things considered we had a good chat as I loaded my gear back into the Pelican and with a farewell to Bob as he wandered back to his house, I started the Pelican for the taxi and warmup trip to the threshold of runway 30. Nelson clearance in hand, I lifted off into a still morning tracking to the east of the city as I gained height for the crossing of the mountainous terrain between Nelson and Havelock. Another good last view as I came abeam Nelson city then it was right turn and away to Havelock in smooth air but a bit of westerly that could have given me a bump or twom, but didn't.

The rugged terrain below had me thankful that it wasn't windy as I had an enjoyable descent into Havelock and relatively smooth arrival downwind low level to view Havelock strip close up before landing. A welcome view indeed, as the time was approaching 10:05 as I touched down, so I hoped I had not ""missed the boat". Jim arrived as I was tying the Pelican down and after some quick introductions we chatted as we worked and met the the strip owner Bill and Jane who were as friendly and welcoming in person as Bill had been on the phone when I rang for landing permission a couple of days earlier.

No time was wasted as I grabbed my day pack, jumped into the mini bus that Jim had arrived in, and away we went back down the highway to Havelock wharf pulling up at the Pelorus Mail Boat checkin office with their new vessel berthed alongside. All done with time to spare and Jim introduced me to their team and skipper of the day since he was not to skipper the boat today. Shortly afterwards, with the last of the day's cargo aboard, including us day trippers and local sounds residents travelling back home, the vessel reversed out of the berth and we were underway on the next adventure.

A picturesque scene unfolded as we got underway and it wasn't long before we were in the sounds proper and calling into our first couple of jetties on the delivery run. Hopewell Lodge was reached just as Mike was departing with his own passengers back across the sounds to Portage, then onwards to Raetihi Lodge before we retraced our path back to Pelorus Sounds. We slowed up to watch a few dolphins playing before us as we continued our passage through to Wilson Bay for our lunch stop. As I had no prior briefing of the expected journey it was lucky I had purchased food in Nelson at the 24/7 shop because this allowed me to take in the Wilson Bay farm visit instead of the Lodge at Te Rawa which is where some of our passengers continued on to for their lunch stop. I am sure that would have been a top spot too but the invitation to enjoy the farm Visit and learn about life on these remote outposts was, for me, one of the best adventures to be had out here.

Having previously walked the Queen Charlotte track and also the northern component of this track out to Cape Jackson, as well as French Pass and D'Urville Island, I was in my element in fine style. I was visualising the adventure that could be had on a future trip as we listened and learned initially in the wool shed then onwards into the accommodations and so to lunch with a pet sheep to accompany us while the conversation taught us about some of the hardships encountered here in such extreme climate conditions and remote transport location.

I could have stayed a week to explore but alas this was just an adventuring exploration of the service still going on by the Pelorus Mail boat and so it was time to return the the wharf for our pick up then Return to Havelock, via another couple of ports of call in the sounds along the way.

All done and dusted back at the Havelock marina, Jim met me again as I disembarked and was ready to shuttle me back to Bill and Jane's Havelock airstrip. Jim is also an adventurous Scotsman and sailor from early years who came to NZ after sailing in the Mediterranean with other kiwi sailors who recommend he visit down under. He did a pilot's Licence after arrival and flew for Eagle Airways for a while until a global downturn had him out of work with pilot layoffs, so he bought the boat business and has been having fun ever since! Especially proud of his new vessel launched October last year and really proving its worth with stability in all conditions and smooth running which the passengers and he enjoy because of the large enclosed cabin to accommodate all who travel the sounds service

Back in camp at Havelock strip, I bid Jim farewell until I next return, and he offered that a pickup can always be arranged from Bill and Jane's strip when passing by and needing a boat trip.👍😀

Bill and Jane, meanwhile, had taken an adjournment from their afternoon of creating lime from their heap of mussel shells and wandered over for a chat, still dressed in their overalls and dust masks as I engaged them with the day's sounds adventure. What a glorious day it had been, as I have previously mentioned, exploring to the limits of the sounds with reminiscing about previous explorations of French Pass, D'Urville Island, Cape Jackson, Queen Charlotte track and all the people I have met when travelling on all of these adventures! This is absolutely wonderful travels and when Bill and Jane invited me to stay with them, I had to gracefully decline, due to other plans!

However, I did offer that I was to return for Havelock Mussel Festival, come Friday evening, weather permitting. So we had a deal with a couple of very hospitable hosts that a Pelican pilot could not walk away from. And so it was get airborne for the next destination before the sun was too low in the sky.

A quick check of my iPad Air Nav Pro map gave me some good reporting points for getting me into the Woodburn control zone, enroute to my destination of Omaka, to catchup with my friend, John Lesley, the sheep farmer from Taylor's Pass, to the south of Blenheim. Although he didn't know it, I was flying into Omaka for a catchup since last time we met, I was to have taken him flying but the weather intervened to say " fly north today Wally, if you want to get home without weather challenges "

Great afternoon weather allowed me a very pleasant flight to Omaka and being a lone flyer was the only one in the air over Omaka so no traffic pattern to fit into. Just me to make my own decision ....to the East on runway 09 on this wonderful grass airfield that the Pelican and I just love to fly into.

Pulling up outside the aero club in the late afternoon I saw the clubhouse door still open so thought I could tie down the Pelican, put my gear in the club house and have a beer to celebrate this wonderful day of adventure. A relaxed start to the overnight had me unpacking and fiddling with tiedown gear, outside on the apron, when I observed two women leave the aero club house and start locking the door! 'What's going on here', I thought I was having a relaxed start here and a beer before heading into town!
I dropped what I was doing and raced over to chat with the women and found that the bar was not open, they were indeed leaving and locked up, as their afternoon yoga class had finished. " oh that's a pity as I was hoping to get a lift into town, are either of you going that way home and mind dropping me off".... It was on neither of their
Paths homeward but one of them did offer to take me that way as is wasn't far off her track so with a flourish of activity I finished tying the Pelican down and raced back to the car park with my bags and fuel containers to enjoy he short drive into Blenheim to be dropped off near the Biddy Kate's backpackers that I stayed at last year. Wandering into the foyer and dropping my gear in a heap, I wandered into the bar to enquire about a room for the night. "Not a chance sorry, we are all booked out. Picking season is underway so lots of people in town" ....anywhere else you recommend?

So a couple of suggestions later I wandered out with my gear and thought I had better get my evening meal sorted first while still daylight and then sort the accomodation for the night. Dropping fuel cans at the nearby BP for collection later freed up arms for shopping so I did a grocery shop at the local supermarket then headed off the the river to eat my dinner and watch the prize giving across the river where a children's competition had been running for the day. Sun was low in the sky on finishing my dinner so it was on the phone again to be accommodated but alas I found that Blenheim was seriously booked out and only a 3 bedroom motel available. Oh well, back to the aerodrome for a night in my tent under the wing I went, collecting my fuel cans from BP and calling a cab to transport me back to Omaka.

This was a first for me to be unable to be accommodated but was why the tent had been included in my southern adventure plan. Into the darkness I went as the taxi drove away so back to the Pelican to collect my tent but a quick idea to bed down in the aero club had me test the doors to see if I could get in. To no avail! But it did catch me red handed trying!

One of the close by residents caught me walking away from the door and hailed me to ask "what are you up to?" Explaining my circumstances, he accepted my reasoning and we departed each to our own corner. This left me to erect my tent in the moonlight beside the aero club and was partway through this exercise when my local resident returned with an offer that was hard to refuse. "The AirBNB house is empty but hasn't been cleaned so I have spoken with our team and they said you can use it without linen and towels but shower and beds are available if you use your sleeping bag.

"Ok thanks" and away he went into the darkness as he had already left the key for me at the house. Packing up the tent in the dark wasn't all that easy but when I checked it the next day it appeared everything was repacked successfully and a very pleasant and comfortable night was spent at the aero Club house.

Arising with the sun next day had me enjoying a leisurely breakfast of porridge and banana after I had hung my washing on the line to hopefully dry before departure. I then contacted John Lesley to see if he had spare time today to catchup....and he did....with an offer to collect me mid morning. This led to a coffee invitation back at his place nearby after a short 'tiki tour' around the local environs. Blenheim outskirts are alive with new buildings and many new residents are moving in from far and wide it appears.

John and his wife farmed sheep on the hills to the south of Blenheim, Taylor's Pass, for 40 plus years since he was asked to take over the farm at 16 when his father died. A steep learning curve no doubt but his mother was right behind him assisting as much as she knew and a station manager was employed to keep the farm operational until John had learned and experienced sufficient knowledge, to resume management.

All this was the interesting story that unfolded as we had lunch together, with his wife Jean, and talked about the adventures that both them and I had experienced over the years. It later led into a round trip through Taylor's Pass into the Awatere Valley to show me the riggers of early transport through the area and difficulty in moving stock over the pass. It was also extremely interesting to see how the Sauvignon Blanc vineyards had revitalised the sheep country to the south of Blenheim and up the Awatere Valley.

All this adventure though was leading to the drop off back at Omaka Aerodrome to bid John farewell till our paths crossed again next year. Paying my overnight expenses and landing fees at the aero club had me once again Introduced to the office team at the MAC where we chatted a little with each other and a couple of other members nearby.

Vince had not landed at Havelock airstrip so wasn't really able to help with interpreting the Havelock weather conditions so I bade them farewell and wandered back to the Pelican, repacked in the morning before leaving the aerodrome, and called Woodburn Tower, with my expected path after becoming airborne, and away I flew in near perfect conditions back to Havelock airstrip.

The continuation of the adventure was enormously satisfying as I flew into the Havelock valley and enjoyed the unfolding scenery before me, guardedly observing the wind conditions as I descended into the HaveLock strip.

Wonderful to fly into, wonderful to experience, the joy of flight in this land of New Zealand. I am apt to enjoy this adventure in mind spirit and word because it is so wonderful and I fear most of us never experience this delight.

So it was descend into this wonderful valley, that I had been invited back to a couple of days before, and alight on the Havelock Strip once again to enjoy the offer of accomodation and perhaps a night at the local hotel in Havelock, curtesy of Bill and Jean of Havelock.

Packed up and walking through the adjoining fence, I realised soon After that Bill was pulling up on the other side of the gate I had just closed To advise me that the house was not his and they lived further up the road. And so a reopening of the gate with subsequent closure behind the ute as Bill drove through, and it was off up the road to their place, after tossing my merge overnight belongings in the tray of the ute.

Being greeted by Jane as I wandered in behind Bill, had me enjoying the friendship that I had briefly been exposed to a couple of days earlier. and was advised to put my bags in the bedroom along the hallway pending being dropped into Havelock for a natter at the Havelock Pub.

Shortly afterwards, it was tootle off down the highway in their mini bus with Jane at the wheel, for a short Friday session with Bill and his friends in a very convivial environment near the foreshore of the Havelock Marina. The afternoon weather was fine and warm, as was the company. It was surprisingly busy in the lounge bar as we met and chatted with Bill's friends from around the district.

Time sped past as it normally does in these circumstances and so it was only a short wait in the car park before Jane arrived to chauffeur us back to their home for a fine dinner and chat around the table that evening, learning a little more about their area of the world and the next Trail Bike adventure they were to undertake the following week. Intrepid journey people like Bill and Jane are always good people to share tales of adventure with.

Next morning arrived after a comfortable nights sleep so with breky done, Bill dropped me down to the township again for the Mussel Festival that I had returned to Havelock for. These events are always highlights for communities like these to participate in so I wandered around Havelock township in my normal relaxed way when time is on my side and I am free to roam. Taking in a few of the side streets,Information centre /Museum, supermarket, local churches and the Marina had me up to speed with the layout and basic infrastructure that kept the town busy around the farming and fishing interests that I observed nearby. I always enjoy these reconnoitres In unfamiliar towns and last time through here it was a road trip with my wife, son and daughter and I recall stopping for a 11am beer and mussel pot at the Mussel Cafe on the highway, as we adventured through here to Motueka and Farewell Spit some years before.

Carrying my "Thank You" shopping with me as I wandered off for the entry to the Mussel Festival nearby, I was ticketed, then went to enter but was stopped by security personnel who had discovered the "Thank you" purchases that I had purchased from the supermarket for Bill and Jane......my wine was not permitted into this area! Bugger, I had not given this a thought when I purchased it earlier on my wandering around the township! And so I was not permitted entry after making all these plans! I could not leave the supplies any where nearby and was reluctant to toss them away or miss the Festival. What to do?

Being a "wing it" sort of dude I decided to take a risk when I found an area with flax bushes nearby and no approaching festival goers, dived into the flax and parked my supplies under the undergrowth and emerged again intent on using my Festival ticket as planned. So I saw the mussel shucking competition nearby. listened to the music, wandered around the stalls, checked out the mussel education centre and relaxed with some mussel fritters with bacon and a coffee, absorbing the atmosphere that I had travelled to enjoy.

The time came for a call to Bill for the pick up so I wandered off for my last check out of the stores for my "presentation wrapping", and was shortly afterwards collected by Bill for return to the airstrip, via their home. I was happy to hear that they did enjoy wine and chocolate on a sunny afternoon on their deck so was pleased that my choice in wine and chocolate was to be appreciated, not gifted elsewhere.😎👍 Being invited by Bill and Jane to return with my friends in future was a wonderful way to depart this Havelock stopover and so it was with fond memories that I packed my gear into the Pelican and launched for the next airstrip on my homeward journey.

Flying out of the sounds on another great flying day had me looking forward to the next stop and reminiscing about my last departure, as the Pelican climbed up along the ridges to the northest of Bill and Jane's farm and I took in the sights of the Sounds and a bit of rough air near Picton that reminded me how lucky I had been with fine conditions for this two week southern adventure in the Pelican, once again flying in familiar territory that had been home ground while living in Wellington.

Alistair and Pauline had been contacted to confirm "Home and OK to land?" before I had become airborne from Havelock so with the settled conditions prevailing over Cook Strait, I ventured back to Martinborough slightly south of the Rimutuka Gap, being mindful that the wind was a little stronger easterly than I would have liked for the crossing here. I did get a couple of downdrafts that were a bit more than the Pelican's 80 horsepower Rotax could handle but maintaining sufficient height above the mountains still kept me safely above the tops.

Descending into Martinborough was once again like my previous returns when based here so it was no effort to do a low rejoin of the circuit close by the farm house and make a short landing, coming to a halt beside the windsock at the halfway point on the airfield. Alistair had no stock at this end of the strip so he collected me shortly after climbing out of aircraft. It was an exciting way to catchup as Alistair and Pauline had been great friends since becoming a Pelican owner some years previously when Alistair had owned a C172 and operated from this strip.

Due to wrangles with a new owner of an ajoining block that the other half of the airstrip ran through, Alistair had been forced to close the strip, as he was no longer able to inspect the full length and maintain the necessary condition report for CAA requirements. This story unfolded as I relaxed with he and Pauline over a cuppa, as we caught up on a couple of years missing story telling and other events.

Time was getting on so after an hour or so it was time to get airborne. "Where are you going to get to tonight Wal?" ...... 'I don't know Alistair, I haven't decided which way home I will go yet, via the Desert Road or via Gisborne'.......so waving them Goodbye, the Pelican and I got airborne to the east and with a right circling departure, overflew their house and set off for Masteron and onwards to Waipukurau.

Now was the time to decide how and where to fly to this late in the afternoon and where to stay? Checking last light times and pondering where to stay I decided my old standby Waipukurau would be just fine as no transport required into town. Gisborne would be reached right on last light so would be a taxi, Wairoa a little earlier but still a taxi, Napier the same and so Waipukurau it was.

I descended into Waipukurau, right hand downwind landing to the south with intentions to camp on the strip but eat downtown. I taxied back up to the northern edge of the strip and shut down near a fence style beside the highway taking a couple of photos as the sunlight gradually faded. Realising that I still had food on board, wine and biscuits the only thing that I really needed was desert which could be purchased nearby at the 24 hour Mobil service station.

So dinner became my evening entertainment as I sat on the Pelican's front tyre and ate my remaining supplies, watched a late evening arrival of the local Ag pilot and sat enjoying the evening, marvelling at all that I had enjoyed for the past two weeks. The Ag pilot refuelled his aircraft, Parked up for the night then drove his ute past my quiet Pelican at the gate, stopped and wandered across to ask if I needed a lift anywhere.

This is what I enjoy most about these adventures. The friendliness and welcoming people I meet all over the countryside making exploring New Zealand such a wonderful experience that I look forward to all the time.

Advising him that I was " Ok no lift required, but thanks for stopping to ask" I felt that Waipukurau was living up to its normal friendliness that I have experienced every time I pass through here.

Packing my dinner gear back on board the Pelican, so it was ready to taxi after my walk around the township of Waipukurau, I climbed the style and set off for fuel and Icecream at Mobil then wandered off around the township for an evening stroll. Grabbing my fuel container from Mobil on my return had the short walk back to the airstrip achieved in a very short time so I then taxied the Pelican back to the parking bay at the Clubhouse and tied it down on the nearby tie down ropes.

Checking to see if the club house was unlocked ( not unlocked) I then thought Tent will be wet if I want an early start so I won't put it up if I can find a verandah to sleep under. So with wine, chocolate, sleeping bag and inflatable bedroll I wandered around the side of the Clubhouse for my evening accomodation under the eves looking up at the stars thinking of the great adventure I was enjoying on my last evening before flying home in the morning.

A comfortable night under the stars had me awake about dawn to start packing up and warming the Pelican for a fine relaxed flight home via the direct track from Waipukurau to Whitianga at 3500' all the way until Whangamata where I had to descend under 2500' for the final descent into home base.

And so to the next adventure. 😎👍